Moscow, the capital of Russia and the largest city in the former Soviet Union and possibly Europe is one of the most interesting and paradoxical of cities. It can be viewed as a large village or as a very sophisticated European capital. Some will see the difficult side of life here with corruption, rising prices and a climate that can be “uncomfortable” for much of the year. Others will experience a dynamic, rapidly changing metropolis with great diversity, fantastic cultural benefits, fast-paced nightlife, famous monuments of architecture and an interesting and diverse population. Moscow has many faces and the only real way to have an understanding of this is to visit the city.

Any visitor to Moscow should spend time in the center, which lies in an arc around the Kremlin. Immediately outside the Kremlin is Red Square. Many visitors find this to be one of the most spectacular and remarkable public spaces in any city. At one end of the Square (about 150 yards long by 400 yards wide) sits Saint Basil’s Cathedral, the most recognizable of Russian landmarks. The construction was completed in 1561 (with changes to the colors in the 1670’s) to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s Conquest of Kazan. The fantastic shapes and colors of its domes conceal 9 chapels inside. As you walk across the Square you are walking on the same ground that was used as a market for centuries and where the czars made announcements to the people. Later it was used for military parades of the Soviet era. At the center, close to the Kremlin Wall sits Lenin’s tomb. You can still view his embalmed corpse on some days. Above his tomb sits the viewing stand at which the Soviet leaders would stand during parades or other public functions. Near Lenin’s tomb and next to the Kremlin’s outer wall are the tombs of many of the leaders of the Soviet Union. Exceptions include some leaders who died in disgrace, such as Nikita Khrushchev who is buried at Novodevichiy Cemetery. At the side of Red Square, opposite to the Kremlin Wall, sits GUM. This 3-story shopping center was built in the 19th Century. Once famous for its collection of poor-quality Soviet consumer goods and long lines to buy them, it now has many very expensive and busy shops bearing the clothing of the world’s most famous designers. Across the street from GUM and at the corner of Red Square sits the small, pink Kazan Cathedral. Demolished during Soviet times, it was rebuilt in 1993. At the north end of Red Square is the State History Museum. The museum has a collection that ranges from prehistory through the whole of Russian history. Just north of the museum and outside of Red Square sits the statue of Marshal Zhukov, the military hero of World War II astride his horse. As you face the statue of Zhukov to your right and along the north wall of the Kremlin are the eternal flame to commemorate the war dead and Alexandrovsky Gardens. This is very pleasant and popular place to go for a stroll on a summer afternoon. Next to this is the underground shopping plaza, Okhatny Ryad.

A visit to the Kremlin and its museums offers a fascinating glimpse at the long history of this country. The Kremlin is open every day except Thursdays. The main entrance is Kutufya Tower on Manezhnaya Ulitsa. The tower actually stands outside of the Kremlin and is connected to it by a ramp that passes over the Alexandrovsky Gardens. Inside the Kremlin you will find the 700 room Great Kremlin Palace which houses the fabulous Diamond Fund Exhibition and the incredible treasures of the Armoury. The Diamond Fund has many precious stones and gems that were acquired by Russia’s Tsar’s and Empresses, including a 190-carate diamond that was given to Catherine the Great by one of her lovers. In the Armoury, the collection includes 14 Faberge eggs.

Also in the Kremlin is the 14th Century Annunciation Cathedral that houses icons by the masters of the genre, Andrei Rublyov and Theophanes the Greek. The Archangel Cathedral contains tombs of most of old Muscovy’s leaders from the 14th through the 17th century and was used for royal weddings and funerals for centuries. Ivan the Great’s Bell Tower is the tallest structure in the Kremlin and it is visible from miles away. Until the 20the century no building in Moscow could be built taller. Near the bell tower is the Tsar’s Cannon cast in 1586. This weighs 40 tons, but has never been fired. Also next to the bell tower is the worlds largest bell. It has never been rung. It weighs 202-tons with an 11-ton chip taken out of it from damage caused by water during its casting in 1737. The Kremlin’ Assumption Cathedral was built between 1475 and 1479. It replaced an older one from 1326. This cathedral was central to Russian religious life pre 1917 Revolution. It was used as the burial place for the Russian Orthodox Patriarchs for nearly 400 years. This is a striking example of religious architecture and should not be missed. Inside the Kremlin are also government buildings and other monuments.

The street, Okhatny Ryad is the closest to the north side of the Kremlin. At the corner with Tverskaya (and only about 2 minutes walk from Zhukov’s statue) sits building that holds the legislative body of the Russian Federation, the Duma. Several blocks further on Okhatny Ryad are Teatralnaya Ploshchad (Theatre Square) and the fabulous Bolshoi Theatre. Just a few more minutes from the Bolshoi is the Lubyanka which was the infamous home of the KGB during the Soviet era.

Most visitors to Moscow will enjoy a walk down the pedestrian thoroughfare, Arbat Street. At one time this street was home to many of Russia’s famous writers and artists. Now it is a busy street with street performers, many shops selling Russian souvenirs and a number of bus restaurants. Another famous street is the city’s commercial and shopping hub, Tverskaya. This street ends across from the Kremlin and is a fascinating place from which to watch Moscow move.

For those interested in Museums, the Tretyakov Gallery has a fantastic collection of Russian art. The Pushkin Gallery, close to the Kremlin and the Lenin Library has an extensive and impressive collection as well. If you are interested in Soviet military history, the Museum of the Armed Forces contains many interesting armaments. One of the best museums is at Victory Park, where the Museum commemorates the Great Patriotic War (World War II).

There are many places in Moscow to observe Russian religious architecture. One of the best is at Novodevichiy Convent and Cemetery. With its cluster of colorful buildings near the Moscow River, Novodevichiy is one of the most picturesque locations in Moscow. It also has a cemetery filled with the majestic tombstones of some most famous Russian citizens including Khrushchev, Chekhov, Eisenstein, Molotov and Gogol.

Kolomenskoe Museum- Reserve is further from the center of Moscow, but it is a great place to spend an afternoon walking. From a bluff in the park there are excellent views over a curve in the Moscow River. Kolomenskoe has the beautiful, tall and iconic Ascension Church. This was built to celebrate the birth of the heir of Prince Vassily III, eventually known as Ivan the Terrible. Also noteworthy are St. George’s Bell Tower and the Kazan Church here.

With regime change, the Seven Stalinist Sisters no longer seem to represent the oppressiveness of the system. These large and most Soviet of buildings are icons in Moscow. They are Moscow University, Hotel Ukraina, Hotel Leningradskaya, the Ministry of Transport, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Block of Flats on Kotelnecheskaya Embankment and the Block of Flats on Krasnaya Presnya.

No visit to Moscow would be complete without a tour of the subway system, the Metro. The Moscow Metro delivers approximately 9,000,000 daily to their destinations. It is a model of efficiency. Begun during the 1930’s of Josef Stalin, it continues to grow and expand in the 21st Century with Moscow. This system is quite inexpensive and with over 150 stations it is very convenient as well. Many of its stations are recognized as beautiful and interesting works of art in their own right. Highlights include Mayakoskaya. Kievskaya, Ploshchad Revolustii and Komsomolskaya.